When we talk about Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, it must not be unfamiliar to you - a long-established estate in Burgundy holding 70% of the Musigny vineyard. Here I would like to share some of my drinking experience with you.
Last November, I was so excited to have a chance to participate in The Fine Wine Experience team visit the winery and took a barrel tasting. This was my second visit at the domaine.
At the end we had the rare chance to taste the Musigny Blanc. My eyes widened and my heart kept beating. ‘The vines date from between 1986 and 1997, plus two patches which have been top-grafted over from Pinot in 2006 and 2008. The last vintage of old vine Musigny Blanc was 1993, since which time the wine has been sold simply as Bourgogne Blanc,’ wrote Jasper Morris MW1 2015 was the first vintage of ‘Musigny Blanc’ since 1993 (the wines from the same plot has been made as ‘Bourgone Blanc’ until the domaine felt the vines mature enough to allow the ‘Musigny Blanc’ back on the label). From barrel that day it is so harmonious and well balanced, with refreshing acidity. Intense notes of citrus, white apricot, green apple and hint of vanilla were in my glass. Normally, we are supposed to spit out at the tasting but I have to say it is a sin to do so with a wine like this! It’s so rare that I am not sure if I could re-taste this vintage in future but this was an experience I can never forget.
Oh I just realised I didn’t mention the vintage of 2018. It was the earliest vintage since 2003 and the harvest took place over around a week. Though there was a high pressure for mildew, strict grape selection is always a must for fine wine production.
The second cuvée at the barrel tasting was Bonnes-Mares, also 2018. The beautiful deep and clear ruby colour sharpened our gazes. There was a sweet sour dark cherry flavour with a round mouthfeel. I did enjoy it and I longed to see this as a new born baby after final blending.
As you may have noticed, our new restaurant – Bâtard – opened in early June. In my previous email offer (Lavaux St. Jacques) had mentioned a few dinners from Bâtard soft-opening week. This time, I would like to highlight the 1989 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares I drank with the team. 1989 vintage was not as exciting as 1990. But this Bonnes-Mares was showing beautifully. Pure red fruit, earth, spices and herbal notes, with long finish. It showed good structure, and was harmonious and delicious!
Two weeks later, my friends picked a bottle of 2007 Domaine Comte Goerges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Amoureuses' (an ex-domaine late release) at shop, and shared with us. 'Les Amoureuses', a 5.4ha premier cru-ranked vineyard, nestles in by Musigny and so its quality is always to be considered one of the best 1er cru red wines in Burgundy. After 3-hour breathing in bottle it started to open up. Yes, it is still very youthful. However, the pureness and concentration are irresistible to stop drinking :) . Red berries, delicate raspberry, florals and spices. It is good to enjoy this beauty now or keep for further cellar-ageing.
The last bottle I enjoyed most recently is 1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüe Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru. 1999 is one of the best vintages in Burgundy. This “Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru” is actually 100% from the grand cru Musigny vineyard, made from the younger vines up to 25 years old. Jasper Morris describes it as ‘a mini-Musigny, with the class and elegance but not the weight or power’2 Uncorked 4 hours before a sushi lunch, it was showing beautifully with violet, dark cherry, black liquorice. Concentrated, multi-layered and complex. Currently, it was the best value one here!
We are proud to represent the domaine here in Hong Kong, and would be happy to answer any questions you might have. Don’t miss the chance to try our selection below and let us know which one is your favourite!
1, 2 Japser Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, p196