By Linden Wilkie, 22nd September 2022

In Damery, near Epernay, Benjamin Choppin is the 7th generation of his family to work the land here in the Marne. There is an intensity of personality to the wines here. They are gastronomic in style. Visiting here we spent at least as long tasting the still wines in barrel – the vins clairs – as we did the finished Champagnes. 

The house wine – Les Arpents – comes from a blend of plots across the 6.5ha estate, and is made from 85% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir, a 3g/l extra-brut style. It is mid-weight, fresh and accessible in style with a distinct spicy note marking the house style. The Rosé, from 93% Chardonnay and 7% Pinot Meunier, 3g/l extra-brut, is gastronomic, with lots of flavour, raspberry cream and spice, it is delicious. 

There is a range of ‘lieux-dits’ cuvées made here, expressing single grape varieties from single plots, extra-brut in style, 2g/l. ‘Les Terres des Reguins’ is 100% Pinot Meunier, from St Martin d’Ablois from vines planted in 1966. Benjamin says his inspiration here is Burgundy. This is aged in 600 litre fûts de chênes, and the style is rich, creamy, spicy, a really ‘vinous’ Champagne. ‘La Côte Charmont’ is another 100% Pinot Meunier from St Martin d’Ablois, the expression here is fresh, open, fragrantly fruity – apples and musk, it is a really joyous style. ‘Les Bas Russelets’ is 100% Pinot Noir from vines planted in 1981 in Damery, and feels like a controlled explosion – there is richness here, framed by a tight chalky texture, a wine of tension. (And in a show of just how age-worthy these are, at the end of our visit Benajmin pulled a 1972 Les Bas Russelets from the cellar, which was vivacious, smokey-savoury, bright, elegant and long-flavoured.)

Champagne Maurice Choppin’s wines are food-friendly, intense and characterful in style, super interesting to explore.