BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR

波尔多期酒

年份 葡萄酒 容量 規格 數量(單位) 數量(瓶) 每瓶價格(港幣) 分數 位置
2021 Calicem - Calicem Saint Emilion 750 OWC3 40 120 800 WA91-93+ EP
2022 Calicem - Calicem Saint Emilion 750 OWC12 10 120 800 - EP
2022 Chateau Beychevelle 750 OWC6 8 48 750 WA92-94 EP
2021 Chateau Canon 750 OWC6 2 12 950 WA94-96 EP
2021 Chateau Cheval Blanc 750 OWC3 3 9 4,500 WA95-97 EP
2022 Chateau Cheval Blanc 750 OWC6 2 12 5,050 WA95-97+ EP
2022 Chateau Cheval Blanc 750 BOTTLE 6 6 5,050 WA95-97+ EP
2021 Chateau Cheval Blanc - Le Petit Cheval Blanc 750 OWC3 11 33 1,280 - EP
2021 Chateau Haut Brion 750 OWC6 6 36 4,250 WA96-98 EP
2022 Chateau Haut Brion 750 OWC6 12 72 5,000 WA95-97 EP
2022 Chateau La Conseillante 750 OWC6 14 84 2,300 WA97-100 EP
2021 Chateau Lafite Rothschild 750 OWC3 1 3 5,500 WA95-97 EP
2022 Chateau Lafite Rothschild 750 BOTTLE 5 5 5,900 WA95-97 EP
2022 Chateau Lafite Rothschild 750 OWC6 2 12 5,900 WA95-97 EP
2022 Chateau Lafite Rothschild - 'Carruades de Lafite' 750 OWC6 4 24 2,100 WA91-93 EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur 750 OWC3 14 42 9,000 WA96-98 EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur 1500 OWC1 12 12 18,000 WA96-98 EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur 6000 OWC1 2 2 90,000 WA96-98 EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red 750 BOTTLE 120 120 280 WA92-94 EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red 1500 BOTTLE 120 120 650 WA92-94 EP
2022 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red 750 OC6 20 120 280 - EP
2022 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red 1500 OC3 40 120 650 WA92-94 EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Les Perrieres 750 BOTTLE 92 92 750 WA94-95+ EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Les Perrieres 1500 BOTTLE 30 30 1,650 WA94-95+ EP
2022 Chateau Lafleur - Les Perrieres 750 OWC6 13 78 800 WA94-96 EP
2021 Calicem - Calicem Saint Emilion
750 ml OWC3 EP HKD 800 / BTL 40 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
40
數量(瓶)
120
每瓶價格(港幣)
800
分數
WA91-93+
位置
EP
2022 Calicem - Calicem Saint Emilion
750 ml OWC12 EP HKD 800 / BTL 10 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
10
數量(瓶)
120
每瓶價格(港幣)
800
分數
-
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Beychevelle
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 750 / BTL 8 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
8
數量(瓶)
48
每瓶價格(港幣)
750
分數
WA92-94
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Canon
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 950 / BTL 2 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
2
數量(瓶)
12
每瓶價格(港幣)
950
分數
WA94-96
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Cheval Blanc
750 ml OWC3 EP HKD 4,500 / BTL 3 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
3
數量(瓶)
9
每瓶價格(港幣)
4,500
分數
WA95-97
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Cheval Blanc
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 5,050 / BTL 2 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
2
數量(瓶)
12
每瓶價格(港幣)
5,050
分數
WA95-97+
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Cheval Blanc
750 ml BOTTLE EP HKD 5,050 / BTL 6 BTL available
容量
750
數量(單位)
6
數量(瓶)
6
每瓶價格(港幣)
5,050
分數
WA95-97+
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Cheval Blanc - Le Petit Cheval Blanc
750 ml OWC3 EP HKD 1,280 / BTL 11 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
11
數量(瓶)
33
每瓶價格(港幣)
1,280
分數
-
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Haut Brion
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 4,250 / BTL 6 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
6
數量(瓶)
36
每瓶價格(港幣)
4,250
分數
WA96-98
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Haut Brion
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 5,000 / BTL 12 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
12
數量(瓶)
72
每瓶價格(港幣)
5,000
分數
WA95-97
位置
EP
2022 Chateau La Conseillante
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 2,300 / BTL 14 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
14
數量(瓶)
84
每瓶價格(港幣)
2,300
分數
WA97-100
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafite Rothschild
750 ml OWC3 EP HKD 5,500 / BTL 1 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
1
數量(瓶)
3
每瓶價格(港幣)
5,500
分數
WA95-97
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Lafite Rothschild
750 ml BOTTLE EP HKD 5,900 / BTL 5 BTL available
容量
750
數量(單位)
5
數量(瓶)
5
每瓶價格(港幣)
5,900
分數
WA95-97
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Lafite Rothschild
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 5,900 / BTL 2 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
2
數量(瓶)
12
每瓶價格(港幣)
5,900
分數
WA95-97
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Lafite Rothschild - 'Carruades de Lafite'
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 2,100 / BTL 4 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
4
數量(瓶)
24
每瓶價格(港幣)
2,100
分數
WA91-93
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur
750 ml OWC3 EP HKD 9,000 / BTL 14 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
14
數量(瓶)
42
每瓶價格(港幣)
9,000
分數
WA96-98
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur
1500 ml OWC1 EP HKD 18,000 / BTL 12 case available
容量
1500
數量(單位)
12
數量(瓶)
12
每瓶價格(港幣)
18,000
分數
WA96-98
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur
6000 ml OWC1 EP HKD 90,000 / BTL 2 case available
容量
6000
數量(單位)
2
數量(瓶)
2
每瓶價格(港幣)
90,000
分數
WA96-98
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red
750 ml BOTTLE EP HKD 280 / BTL 120 BTL available
容量
750
數量(單位)
120
數量(瓶)
120
每瓶價格(港幣)
280
分數
WA92-94
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red
1500 ml BOTTLE EP HKD 650 / BTL 120 BTL available
容量
1500
數量(單位)
120
數量(瓶)
120
每瓶價格(港幣)
650
分數
WA92-94
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red
750 ml OC6 EP HKD 280 / BTL 20 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
20
數量(瓶)
120
每瓶價格(港幣)
280
分數
-
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Lafleur - Chateau Grand Village Red
1500 ml OC3 EP HKD 650 / BTL 40 case available
容量
1500
數量(單位)
40
數量(瓶)
120
每瓶價格(港幣)
650
分數
WA92-94
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Les Perrieres
750 ml BOTTLE EP HKD 750 / BTL 92 BTL available
容量
750
數量(單位)
92
數量(瓶)
92
每瓶價格(港幣)
750
分數
WA94-95+
位置
EP
2021 Chateau Lafleur - Les Perrieres
1500 ml BOTTLE EP HKD 1,650 / BTL 30 BTL available
容量
1500
數量(單位)
30
數量(瓶)
30
每瓶價格(港幣)
1,650
分數
WA94-95+
位置
EP
2022 Chateau Lafleur - Les Perrieres
750 ml OWC6 EP HKD 800 / BTL 13 case available
容量
750
數量(單位)
13
數量(瓶)
78
每瓶價格(港幣)
800
分數
WA94-96
位置
EP
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2022 Bordeaux – The Vintage and The Wines

Virtually every château I visited during my week in Bordeaux led with a defense against the obvious objection to 2022: “Of course by now you know that 2022 was a very hot year, with drought conditions, but…”, and a big focus on the ‘but’. That ‘but’ seems to be a very positive one however – many 2022s offer an almost perplexing, paradoxical level of freshness. The best wines of the vintage offer high-wire act level balance, combining super intensity of fruit, enticingly exotic-edged fragrance, and surprisingly reasonable PH levels, and expressions of freshness. When I met with Christian Moueix in Libourne, he was unequivocal – this is a great vintage, “even greater than 1982, because of the low yield”. Did the tough, dry conditions favour some terroirs over others?, I wondered. He paused, and considered my question before answering - “In theory in these conditions clay or limestone are favoured, but in practice no”, he said, followed by a broad smile.

Alcohol levels are on the high side in 2022. We are talking above 14% alcohol by volume (ABV) in most cases, and there were some grands vins made in 2022 at 15%. Take a pause now and let that number sink in. Fifteen. (Where possible I have included the alcohol levels with my tasting notes). The second element in the 2022 style is that due to a lack of water, and intense heat, berries were small, and the ratio between skins (aromas, flavours, tannins) and juice was low. In other words it was easy to extract a lot from less, and easy to achieve concentration. 2022 has the potential for intense aroma and fruit, but also formidable levels of tannin. Nonetheless, many château seemed to get extractions right. The pendulum has been moving in this ‘easy-does-it’ direction style-wise for some years now, and I was really pleased to see elegance in wines like Pape Clément and Angelus for instance. Others made wine with a ‘classical’ sort of extraction. Wines like Ducru-Beaucaillou and Léoville Las Cases seem almost brutal in their structure, and left me scratching my head a little. Both feel like they have a chance of turning out brilliantly, but it is difficult to tell beneath the sheer cloak of tannin. In any case they will require long cellaring, and this is worth noting. Indeed, Léoville Las Cases write in their primeurs booklet – ‘This 2022 vintage reminds us of the 1870’. I have not tasted Las Cases 1870, but over the years I have tried 1870 Lafite, 1870 Gruaud Larose and 1870 Mouton amongst others – all are still rich and structured in the 21st century! They would have been a challenge to taste from cask!! These days however, as customers, we are used to drinking windows that begin earlier. So, read references to tannin and structure in tasting notes (mine and others’) carefully if this is not for you, even if the wines will amaze your great grandchildren.

In some cases these two factors  - alcoholic heat exacerbated by rich tannins – dominate in the wines. There is a real feeling of intensity, density, but not the lushness of real fruit, especially mid-palate, to balance. Not much fun.

But where all this was managed well, and the secret to 2022 was there – freshness – some real Bordeaux magic is on offer in 2022. This is not a relentlessly ripe and sweet baked vintage. There’s real vivacity. Think of it more as a supercharged year.

Why in a year of heat and drought is there such freshness? I heard many different explanations, some contradictory between châteaux, but here are some key points. At Château Lafleur, Omri Ram pointed to three factors that distinguish 2022 from other hot years. Firstly, there was good rainfall in November and December 2021, ensuring some moisture reserves for 2022. This was followed by a ‘real winter’, giving the vines a break. Then, when the vines woke up in the Spring, 2022 was already into drought conditions, an important signal for the vines which put energy into root systems. Leaf production was not excessive, and bunches were smaller. There were ten nights of frost in March/April, but there was little damage, there was one incident of hail (at a small part of Grand Village), but after that the vintage was quite linear, with very little disease pressure, and fruit at harvest was in very good health.

Thomas Burke, at Château Margaux echoed Ram’s comments that this was a “relatively easy vintage, with no frost, no hail, no disease pressure.” There was very little rain – 340mm. The heat and drought delivered incredibly small berries (the lowest weight berries in 20 years), and consequently the yields were low – 25hl/ha. The wine was dense and ripe, with lots of concentration and tannin (highest tannins level ever), but the surprise at the estate was how round and soft the tannins were. “Something unique happened – the freshness. When we look at the PH level of 2022, it’s even lower than in 2021. It’s a paradox.” “Why?” – someone asked during our visit. Burke replied “We don’t know. Everyone has ideas why it is this way, and we love to talk about those ideas, but in truth it is probably a number of factors, but we don’t know. But taste the wines and see for yourself.” To my palate, Château Margaux is something close to the archetype 2022, in the best sense – it is straight and structured in a way that reminds me of their 1986, but with finer, softer tannins, even more freshness (in a more 1996 direction), and the sort of precision we have only really seen in the past decade or less.

Were there district winners and losers? I missed too many châteaux to be more definitive in answering this question. It doesn’t seem like a bank vs bank, Cabernet vs Merlot sort of year. Rather it seems like a year in which terroir was important, and the quality of work and decisions were critical. I had hoped for more from Graves than I saw, but I couldn’t tell you why that is. Otherwise I saw exceptional examples everywhere (and disappointments). Perhaps it is not a memorable year for whites, though there were some very good ones (Pape Clement, Chevalier, and Pavillon Blanc), and I think generally the style of the (well-made) Sauternes is in the fuller style we actually go for less these days (bolder, heavier).

The Dry Whites

 Aile d’Argent 90-92  
 Château Carbonnieux Blanc 90-92  
 Champs Libres  --  
 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 86-88  
 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 93-96  
 Château Couhins Lurton Blanc 86-89  
 Château Fieuzal Blanc 90-92  
 Château Grand Village Blanc --  
 Château Haut-Brion Blanc 90-92?  
 La Clarté 86-88  
 Château Latour Martillac Blanc 90-92  
 Château La Louvière Blanc 90-92  
 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc 89-91?  
 Château Olivier Blanc 87-89  
 Château Pape Clement Blanc 93-95 92-93?
 Pavillon Blanc 94-96  
 Château Puygueraud Blanc 85-86  
 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 93-95  
 Les Hauts de Smith Blanc 91-93  
     

Right Bank Satellites

 Château Alcée 86-88  
 Château de Bel-Air 90-92  
 Château Grand Village Rouge --  
 Les Perrières --  
 Château La Prade 89-91  
 Château Puygueraud 89-92  
     

Pomerol

   
 Château Bourgneuf 93-95  
 Château Certan de May 93-95  
 Château Chantalouette 89-91  
 Château La Conseillante 97-99  
 Château L’Evangile 95-97  
 Blason de L’Evangile 91-93  
 Château La Fleur-Pétrus 94-96  
 Château Le Gay 91-93  
 Manoir de Gay 86-89  
 Château La Grave 91-93  
 Château Hosanna 93-95  
 Château Lafleur --  
 Les Pensées --  
 Château Lafleur-Gazin 93-95  
 Château Lagrange 89-91  
 Château Lagravière 89-91  
 Château Latour à Pomerol 93-96  
 Château Montviel 91-93  
 Château Nenin 90-92  
 Le Pin 95-97  
 Château Plince 88-90  
 Château Saint-Pierre 92-94  
 “II” de Ch Saint-Pierre 89-91  
 Château Trotanoy 95-97+  
 Vieux Chateau Certan 95-97  
 Château La Violette 92-94  
     

St.-Émilion

   
 Château Angelus 95-97  
 Carillon d’Angelus 92-94  
 Château Ausone 92-94  
 La Chapelle d’Ausone 91-92  
 Château Bélair-Monange 91-94?  
 Château Bellevue 91-93  
 Château Berliquet 92-94  
 Calicem --  
 Château Canon 95-97  
 Château Cheval Blanc 95-97+  
 Château La Clotte 89-91  
 Couvent des Jacobins --  
 Château Figeac 96-98  
 Château Fonbel 88-91  
 Château Haut Simard 90-91  
 L’If 92-93  
 Château Larcis Ducasse 90-94+  
 Château Moulin Saint-Georges 90-92  
 Château Pavie Macquin 94-96  
 Château Peymouton 93-95  
 Château Pindefleurs 91-93  
 Château Quinault L’Enclos 90-92  
 Château La Serre 91-93  
 Château Simard 91-93  
     

Graves / Pesseac-Léognan

 Château Carbonnieux Rouge 87-89  
 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 95-97  
 “C” des Carmes Haut-Brion 92-94  
 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 91-93 90-92
 Château Couhins-Lurton Rouge 85-87?  
 Château de Fieuzal Rouge 92-94  
 Château Haut Bailly 92-94+  
 Haut Baily II 87-89  
 Château Haut-Brion 92-94+?  
 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 89-91  
 Château Latour Martillac 86-88  
 Château La Louvière Rouge 89-91 89-91
 Château Malartic Lagravière Rouge 91-93  
 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 93-95  
 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 91-93  
 Château Olivier Rouge 90-92  
 Château Pape Clement 94-96  
 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge 94-96  
 Château Thil Rouge 90-92  
     

Médoc / Haut-Médoc / Listrac-Médoc

 Château Potensac 90-92  
     

Margaux

   
 Château Brane Cantenac 87-89?  
 Baron de Brane 85-87  
 Blason de d’Issan 87-89?  
 Château d’Issan 87-88?  
 Château Margaux 96-98+  
 Pavillon Rouge 92-94  
 Château Palmer 98-100  
 Alter Ego de Palmer 92-95  
     

St.-Julien

   
 Clos du Marquis 91-93  
 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 91-96  
 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou 89-91  
 Le Petit Ducru 87-90  
 Madame de Beaucaillou 86-88  
 Château Langoa-Barton 91-93  
 Château Léoville Barton 94-96  
 Château Léoville Las Cases 92-98  
 Château Mauvesin Barton 91-93  
     

Pauillac

   
 Château d’Armailhac 91-93  
 Château Clerc Milon 93-96  
 Pastourelle de Clerc Milon 89-91  
 Château Duhart-Milon 89-92  
 Château Grand Puy Lacoste 94-96  
 Château Haut Batailley 92-94  
 Verso de Haut Batailley 90-92  
 Moulin de Duhart 87-89  
 Château Lafite-Rothschild 98-100  
 Carruades de Lafite 90-93  
 Château Latour 96-98  
 Les Forts de Latour 93-95  
 Pauillac de Château Latour 90-93  
 Château Lynch Bages 91-95?  
 Echo de Lynch Bages 90-92  
 Château Mouton-Rothschild 94-96+  
 Le Petit Mouton 86-88  
 Château Pedesclaux 86-89?  
 Château Pichon Longueville Baron 96-98  
 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93-95  
     

St.-Éstephe

   
 Château Lafon-Rochet 83-86?  
 Château Phélan Ségur 90-92  
 Frank Phélan 85-87  
 Château Les Ormes de Pez 92-94  
     

Sauternes

   
 Château Broustet 91-93  
 Château Climens 91-93  
 Château Coutet 92-94  
 Château Doisy Daëne 86-88  
 Château Doisy Vedrines 89-91  
 Château de Fargues 93-95  
 Château Guiraud 92-94  
 Clos Haut Peyraguey 93-95  
 Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 90-92  
 Château Rieussec 89-91  
 Château Suduiraut 93-95  
 Château La Tour Blanche 91-93  

v

My Usual Caveats

In an ideal world I would taste from a wider range of châteaux, re-taste key wines on different days, and spend 3-4 weeks at this. My notes were made over a single week, brilliantly choreographed and hosted by my friend and négocient, Manu, and this report is the result of that very intense week. (Unfortunately, I had to miss some appointments this year).

I have been tasting en primeur for a number of years, and that affords a sort of ‘tasting calibration’ that can take into account the tender age of the wines. Wines that are only a few months old can be very tricky to judge, and score ranges and impressions – from anyone – should be treated as a rough guide to what we might expect in bottle. Some are almost opaque – if not in colour, in what they reveal about themselves at this embryonic stage. If I find a wine hard to judge I try to express that in the note, and give a wider score range too.

Wines also ‘move around’ a lot at this stage of their life. A week or two can make a big difference, but also tasting a cool sample on a wet cool morning at a UGC (or other group) tasting on one day, and a fairly warm sample, on a hot stuffy afternoon in a warm château salon on another can make a big difference (note, unfortunately, Châteaux d’Issan and Brane-Cantenac, suffered the latter – those wines may prove far better than the impressions they gave on the day, but I cannot write a note based on something imagined).

But I would therefore read more into a really positive tasting note and score than a negative one. Style is as important a consideration as score. A high score doesn’t mean you will like the wine, and a moderate score might be given to a very good one that is right in the groove of what you actually enjoy. Read the descriptions carefully, and read from a variety of sources. (This is general advice when reading other people’s tasting notes anyway).

Consider prices carefully when the offers come out. Most fine Bordeaux is nonetheless made in plentiful quantities, so it is not rare wine. We are fortunate to be living in a time when châteaux are making the best quality wines they have ever made, and we have had a number of recent successful vintages. When 2022s are released, look at other recent vintages for the same wines – read reviews, look at prices for those wines. Because you are buying 2022s as futures, they should look like a good deal today, compared to recent comparable quality vintages that are physically available for immediate delivery.

That said, it is my personal view that in today’s market top quality Bordeaux offers very good value for money. Price is a question of market sentiment, but for quality in the bottle, I think there is amazing value available, especially in the tier right behind all the first growths.

I do think though that 2022 deserves a place in all Bordeaux enthusiasts’ cellars. The natural sense of concentration and the freshness combine to offer a real vintage signature, one that Bordeaux enthusiasts will want to revisit. Amongst them are undoubtedly some future classics, and for value seekers there will be some exceptional gems to find too. Some ’22s will find a place in my own cellar, for sure.