BY ANTHONY HANSON MW, 18 Jun 2020

Domaine Fabrice Vigot is a little-known gem of Vosne-Romanée. The estate hides in full sight, lying between the Toute Petite Auberge restaurant and the Hôtel Richebourg, as you drive down the slope into the village, when approaching from Nuits-Saint-Georges. It’s a tiny estate, cultivating 2½ hectares (just over 6 acres), family-tended by Fabrice and his wife Christine Vigot. Ploughing rather than weed-killing, and using organic composts, have been the rule here since 1993, and pesticides have been eliminated. 

Copper sulphate and sulphur-dusting protect the vines from mildew and oïdium. Stainless steel vats were installed in 2006, when the winery was modernised, and native yeasts are the rule for fermentations, which can last 20 days. “Controlling temperatures, bringing air to the fermenting must and turning the grape-skins over account for our successes each vintage,” explains Fabrice Vigot.  

Amongst their choicest wines is the well-placed Gevrey-Chambertin vineyard Aux Etelois, which lies downhill from Griotte-Chambertin. The 2017 version was made with 15% whole bunches, giving delicate aromas, lively energy and excellent length. Also to be found here is a village-level Vosne-Romanée called La Colombière. The 2016 bottling is deeply purple, with fragrant aromas and luscious fruit – a beautiful wine for immediate enjoyment.