This evening we will explore a full, deep representative history of the greatness of Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné’s iconic Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’.

Recently, I had the chance to taste the sublime 2016. An infant, yes, but beauty and harmony is clear to see. On the heels of the more powerful, brooding, yet equally well-balanced 2015 and perhaps we are now seeing the Frey family’s restoration project with 'La Chapelle' coming to fruition. Clearly, 'La Chapelle' has become a release to watch.

Eight years ago I organized a complete vertical of 'La Chapelle' – every vintage made between 1961 and 2005 tasted over two consecutive evenings. I was struck by something that has been reconfirmed before and since by other verticals of this wine I have organized or attended – tasting backwards (youngest to oldest), taking vintage vagaries aside, the trend is toward better wine the older you go. In other words, 'La Chapelle's quality declined – particularly in the 1990s and early 2000s. That’s not to say that period was full of bad wine – there are vintages in that period I actively seek out and drink, and there is superb quality/price amongst them too. But that peak, when 'La Chapelle' matched or surpassed, say, J-L Chave, was solidly back in the ‘70s, ‘60s (and prior).

The Frey family took control here in 2006, a move controversial at the time (the sacrilegious idea of a 'Bordelais' Hermitage from the owners of Château La Lagune seemed too much for some), and has invested capital and expertise to revive the estate (and large-scale commercial wine production business). I suspect that although the climate today is quite different to that of the ‘60s and ‘70s – so too techniques – qualitatively the Frey leadership has gotten ‘La Chapelle’ back to the quality that made this label so rightly famous. The ’16 and ’15 got me curious about this. So I hope that you will be able to join me for dinner so that we can explore this together. The line up includes many of the most celebrated vintages, as well as many personal favourites.

Dinner will commence with the 2009 Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’ Blanc in magnum (a revival of an old Jaboulet label, distinct from their other white Hermitage – 'Chevalier de Sterimberg'), and then we shall taste the Jaboulet Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’ (rouge) 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009, 1997 (magnum), 1990, 1989, 1988, 1983, 1982, 1979, 1978, 1969 (magnum), and 1966.

WINES TO BE SERVED:

2009 Hermitage 'La Chapelle Blanc', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné (Magnum)
1966 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
1969 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné (Magnum)
1978 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné (WA100)
1979 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
1982 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
1983 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
1988 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
1989 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
1990 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné (WA100)
1997 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné (Magnum, Ex-domaine) 
2009 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
2010 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné
2015 Hermitage 'La Chapelle', Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné (WA97-100)