By Linden Wilkie, 18 November 2021

Jean-Marc Blain and his family domaine work 9 hectares, in Chassagne-Montrachet mostly for both reds and whites, but also a white in Puligny-Montrachet and reds in Volnay and Pommard. They are 60% white / 40% red by plantings, and 70% white / 30% red by production. Tasting 2020s from barrel and 2019s from bottle in the cellars in July 2021 we found the wines to be pure, expressive, appealing, with fine balance and textures.

This begins already with the impressive village-level bottlings, and the Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc includes – and always has done – 30% of 1er Cru level fruit, which speaks to their commitment to quality. Blain-Gagard are the second largest owner of 1er Cru ‘La Boudriotte’, a part of Morgeot, but always bottled separately here because the soil is different – limestone marl with pebbles, giving a taut, high energy, mineral and focused wine. The 1er Cru bottled as ‘Morgeot’ is from red clay with very few pebbles, and gives a fuller creamier, broad and palate-coating wine.

At the top of the whites hierarchy, Blain-Gagnard are owners in grands crus Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (elegant, mineral, creamy, good length), Bâtard-Montrachet (broad, thick on attack, but tapering to a fine more taut finish), and Le Montrachet (very fine, detailed, rich, mineral and full, grand but discreet, with fine acidity).

The red 1er Cru from Chassagne-Montrachet – ‘Clos Saint Jean’ offers one of the village’s most refined reds according to Jean-Marc, it typically produces one of the more airy and delicately styled wines, more akin to Volnay. Likewise the Volnay 1er Cru ‘Pitures’ is chalky-textured, elegant with fine grip.

We are delighted to now be working with Domaine Blain-Gagnard and are pleased to offer this debut vintage – the 2018s.