Text by Linden Wilkie, 15 April 2022

Located in Bockenau in the Nahe region, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich is one of Germany greatest wine estates, particularly famous for its dry Rieslings – especially the "GG"s.

Like Helmut Dönnhoff, who one generation earlier, brought the Nahe region to world attention, Tim Fröhlich is has brought the 200 years of his family’s winemaking to the front rank, with many accolades. Debuting in the mid-1990s, by the 2000s he had been named the Gault-Millau "rising star", and in 2010 it’s "winemaker of the year".

The key here is old vines on great terroir, low yields, precise work in the vineyards and winery, natural native yeast fermentation in stainless steel, producing Riesling of grace, balance, and a super fine sense of precision and detail.

The focus is on the dry style. Our entry point is the VDP Ortswein 2020 "Shiefergestein" Bockenaur Riesling Trocken, a dry wine from the estate’s blue slate soils (Felseneck), which give elegance and minerality, and the VDP Gutswein 2020 and 2018 "Vulkangestein" Riesling Trocken from volcanic soils (Felsenberg and Stromberg). Both of these wines come from "GG" (grand cru / "grosses gëwachs") vineyards, but from younger vines – 15~30 years old, therefore declassified by Schäfer-Fröhlich. Try these two expressions side by side to get a sense of the principal terroirs differences, and the house style. These are going to be perfect for summer!

There is also a small amount of the classic fruity style Riesling made here. Try the 2018 Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese. I have known the wines of Schäfer-Fröhlich for many years and long been a fan, so I am delighted that we are now representing them in Hong Kong. This selection has been shipped direct from the estate. In addition, I have over the years bought small quantities of their special "Auktion wine" entries from time to time. Have a look at the intense, higher-prädikat fruity style selections below too – 2016 and 2013 Felseneck Auslese Goldkapsel Auktion. 2011 and 2006 Felseneck Beerenauslese Goldkapsel Auktion, and 2008 Felseneck Eiswein Goldkapsel Auktion.

The estate’s dry Riesling grand crus – GGs – are what has put them on the map. We have four to show you –

• Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube, from volcanic soil, vines here are almost 60 years old. The terroir here is porphyry, igneous rock.
• Schlossbockeheimer Felsenberg, from volcanic soil, a near neighbour to the Kupfergrube. vines over 35 years old. The terroir here is also porphyry rock.
• Bockenauer Stromberg, from volcanic soil, from very old vines, some pre-phylloxera, over 80 years old. This is also a monopole vineyard, the vines are on the south side, while the north side is a former stone mine.
• Bockenauer Felseneck, from blue Davonian slate soil, with some basalt and quartz, vines over 35 years old. The estate is a large owner here, and if people know Felseneck they know Schäfer-Fröhlich, and if they know Schäfer-Fröhlich they know Felseneck.

Finally, there is a red! The 2017 Bockenauer Spätburgunder "R" Trocken, is Pinot Noir, from 30+ year old vines on blue slate soil (minerality and elegance), made in the Burgundy style, about 85% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation, and aged in regular size French oak barrels. A must try!