When you really want to get to know two of the greatest vineyards in Burgundy, it takes time and careful collecting of just the right bottles. First, you need the best producers’ wines to be included, but that is not enough on its own. Ideally, you would serve only vintages that are mature and ready to drink. You would also limit those vintages to just one or two so that you are comparing like with like. Oh, and you would try to include at least one or two producer’s examples of both vineyards to really compare them.

For this dinner we will take a close look at Musigny Grand Cru, and Chambertin Grand Cru, and all of these requirements are met. We will enjoy not only the best but also have the chance to really deepen our understanding of these two vineyards. (Actually three vineyards: Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is its own separate grand cru, though you can make “Chambertin Grand Cru” from Chambertin-Clos de Bèze grapes. We will also be able to see the difference between “straight” Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze in the case of Armand Rousseau’s 1998s side by side).

We will also cover what diversity of terroir there is in Musigny. It comprises three lieux dits – Les Petits Musigny, which is 100% owned by Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Les Musigny (which de Vogüé also owns the largest piece of) where all other growers are located, except for Jacques Prieur who has another monopole lieu dit – the Musigny Grand Cru part of La Combe d’Orveau!

For Jasper Morris MW: “Musigny is for me one of Burgundy’s outstanding crown jewels, on a par with Chambertin… marketing departments have turned the phrase ‘iron fist in a velvet glove’ into a cliché, but there is an element of this in Musigny, as in Château Margaux. The sumptuous nature of the fruit provides the velvet, the exceptional density of it the fruit.” “Charles Rousseau himself is quoted by Jean-Francois Bazin as saying that ‘Le Chambertin is male, well built. It lacks a bit of finesse in youth, but rounds out. The Clos de Bèze is more complex, classier, more delicate.'"

At times we may think we really have it sorted in our minds what Musigny is like and what Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze are like, but by putting them side by side those differences (and similarities) should become far clearer to us. And, even if they don’t we shall have enjoyed 13 of the most desirable examples of Burgundy we might wish for.

WINES TO BE SERVED:

1998 Domaine Georges Roumier - Musigny
1998 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé - Musigny (BH95)
1998 Joseph Drouhin - Musigny
2002 Domaine Faiveley - Musigny
2002 Domaine Mugnier - Musigny (BH95)
2002 Domaine Jacques Prieur - Musigny

1998 Domine Leroy - Chambertin
1998 Domaine Armand Rousseau - Chambertin
1998 Domaine Armand Rousseau - Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
2002 Domaine Dugat-Py - Chambertin (BH96-99)
2002 Domaine Denis Mortet - Chambertin (BH95)
2002 Domaine Faiveley - Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
2002 Joseph Drouhin - Chambertin-Clos de Bèze