Back
Two dinners featuring Bonnes Mares verticals from Domaine Georges Roumier
When you taste a wine like the 1990 or 2002 Domaine Roumier Bonnes Mares there is something like the delayed turbo-release of a 1980s homologated hot-hatch: the initial impression is quietly impressive in its complexity and detail, but then wooooomph, suddenly there is a mid-palate explosion. I witnessed this in both the Hong Kong and Beijing dinners. Call it what you will, a controlled explosion perhaps? Whatever, there is a surging thrill when you taste this at its apex.
That said, in great years the tide lifts the standard across a wide community of producers. This brilliance is the work of nature, and the winemaker guides the wine home – the gentler the hand the better. But in difficult years – ones with a catalogue of challenges, only the most determined and skilled of vignerons can deliver something delicious. The 1998 – tasted at both events – provided a great example of Roumier’s mastery. This year threw frost, hail, sunburn and then rot at the vines. Yet Roumier’s Bonnes Mares is pure, complex and delicious – a demonstration of meticulous care. Moreover, the wine – perhaps to a better blind taster than me – tastes identifiably like a ’98, it’s simply the best sort of expression of the vintage possible. Not an outstanding wine in the absolute sense, but a great ’98. This characteristic was also true of the 1994 and the 1983.
Perhaps we may take credit for the cautious purchasing. As that attention to sourcing led to every bottle at both events revealing pristine examples (though that praise should sit with the bottles’ former owners, who obviously cellared these treasures so well, and Bacchus, who smiled on our corks). Good provenance is only an enabler – something that hasn’t artificially diminished what is in the bottle. It cannot add. Two things then struck me about these wines, in relation to Roumier: the beautiful, crystalline purity of each wine; and secondly, lest I label that a ‘Roumier style’, Bonnes Mares came through clearly in each example (something of a blend of Chambolle’s charm, and Morey’s strength and groundedness), as did the vintage character. Some producers deliver remarkable consistency – like this – but the ‘signature’ is somewhat dominant. These wines are the type you taste blind and get a quick target lock: “I know this is Domaine X, but I’m not sure yet which vineyard it is.” These Roumier wines on the other hand seemed transparent, wonderfully transparent and ego-less.
Christophe Roumier, born 1958, is the third generation at the estate founded by his grandfather Georges in the 1920s. Christophe joined his father Jean-Marie in 1981, after his oenological studies at Dijon University. He succeeded his father in 1992, but even by then his reputation was cemented. ‘The wines were fine in Georges and Jean-Marie’s time. They have reached even greater heights under the aegis of Christophe,’ Clive Coates MW wrote in the mid-‘90s. His winemaking seems to offer no special approach – no 100% whole bunches, or 100% de-stemming here. The inclusion of whole bunches depends on the vintage. No 100% new oak here – it is more like 30%. The fashion of remontage over pigeage is also not followed here – the cap is punched down twice per day during fermentation apparently. A sorting table was introduced in 2003, but I have tasted no miscreant grapes or bunches in anything older, suggesting careful sorting in the vineyard during (and prior to) harvest. There I believe, lies the answer.
Bonnes Mares, as all the textbooks will describe, is an amalgamation of two terroirs – the Terres Rouges at the northern (Morey-St-Denis) end of the vineyard, which gives body, density and structure, and Terres Blanches at the southern (ChambolleMusigny) end of the vineyard, that gives delicacy and finesse. Roumier has 1.39ha, with plots in both soils, and blends the two to make one Bonnes Mares. Can we say the good monks knew what they were doing when they delimited Les Bonnes Mares to encompass these two soils? If Roumier’s is the evidence offered, perhaps we can agree.
I’ve often regarded Bonnes Mares as a wine requiring fifteen to twenty years to really come around. However, in the two verticals there was no vintage that felt too young to enjoy, even if some were so youthful (’09, ’05, ’99), we were left to mentally project their future full potential. At least they offered tenderness, no dryness in their firm tannic foundations and layers / waves of complex fruit and detail. They are seductive. The ’07, ’02, ’01, and ’98 give the impression of more to come but are already open and show healthy bottle evolution. If you err on the side of fruit over ultimate complexity, these vintages are ready to go. Meanwhile the ’00, ’96, ’90, ’89, ’85, and ’83 would sit on almost everyone’s plane of perfect maturity. Nothing in either line up seemed to be tiring, save perhaps for the ’94.
We hosted two dinners focused exclusively on Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares – one at the Hong Kong Grand Hyatt’s Grissini restaurant on the 24th of October, and one at Beijing’s Rosewood hotel on the 3rd of November 2017. Most of the vintages were duplicated (in which case I note ‘tasted at both dinners’, and my notes amalgamate the two, with any variation noted). At both dinners participants voted on their two favourite wines. The votes are also noted below.
Tasted at both dinners. At best 96
A little cooler and more floral in Hong Kong, sweeter in Beijing with its candied-raspberries on show. Floral notes in both bottles. The Hong Kong bottle was more awkward, structured, while the Beijing bottle showed sweetness and layered tannin, and high quality fruit. (Both from the same case).
No votes.
Tasted at both dinners. 95
Consistent bottles, both a little lighter than the ’09 and ’05, as one would expect, with a paler depth of colour. Wonderfully open and aromatic in both cases, with sweet seductive fruit, a more sapid-fresh expression; expressive too on the palate, with admirable complexity, strong composure and definition for an ’07 – more focused than many – intense purity, and a peacock’s tail finish.
No votes.
Tasted at both dinners. 98
Consistent bottles. The 2005 is one of those ‘turbo’ wines I described in the introduction. Deep in colour with a rich, dark, brooding nose, lovely rose and musk-edged fruit, a very pure expression; on the palate the fruit is lovely, and there is obvious concentration and depth, filigree-fineness. What then strikes is the layering – there is so much wound up inside this and by the mid-palate the latitude is remarkable. Of course this is still very young, and after a wine like the ’07, quite reserved, but the scale and complexity is compelling, as is the tender yet precise way in which it is all framed. Tardis-like Bonnes Mares.
2 votes in Hong Kong and 3 votes in Beijing.
Tasted in Hong Kong only. 97
Humus soil / wet garden sort of notes on the nose along with bright, fresh fruit; so pure on the palate, a jewel-like expression and fineness of texture, lovely wild raspberry fruit, fine grip providing just enough definition to the finish. This 2002 is drinking so beautifully now but feels like it is just stretching its legs. A mood-boosting wine!
5 votes.
Tasted at both dinners. 98
Consistent bottles – amazing aromatics at both dinners. Florals, umami notes, fruit and spice compete for attention, yet after the open 2002, it is more brooding. You have to get in and swirl the glass, but it is all there already – out come the fireworks. Lovely pure fruit, elegant but with real authority, a musk/rose petal note of seduction in the fruit that extends from the attack through to the long and expansive finish. The florals are incredible. Perhaps the epitome of Roumier’s skill and Bonnes Mares expression? This 2001 is hard to beat.
No votes in Hong Kong, 4 votes in Beijing.
Tasted at both dinners. 93
A little colour development evident on the edge of the rim, but it’s still a fresh, healthy colour; a sweet nose, some sous bois, a candied edge to the fruit, fragrant and delicious aroma. But, it has less precision than ’02 or ’01, yet is in line with expectation. Tantalising sweet-savoury balance on the palate, more gourmand, and very appetizing Bonnes Mares. Lush and delicious. The tannins are a touch more rustic after the aforementioned wines, but on almost any day of the week this wine would shine if not served with the others.
No votes in Hong Kong, 1 vote in Beijing.
Tasted at both dinners. 96
Consistent bottles. Still very deep and youthful looking; cherry and raspberry confit nose, yet largely primary, and even a little oak in evidence – less integrated than ’09 and ’05; concentrated intensity on the palate, real depth to the fruit. This 1999 is a grand Bonnes Mares. Despite the relative slow development, after almost an hour in the glass, this wine opens up impressively – there is so much here. If you have the 1999, I would still suggest cellaring it another few years. (I know, I know, I feel your pain, but at least you have some!).
2 votes in Hong Kong, 1 vote in Beijing.
Tasted at both dinners. 92
Still impressive colour depth, graduating to a developed rim; fruit, wet tree bark and moss on the nose on both occasions, a slight whiff of reduction in Beijing, just a touch more perfume in Hong Kong, where there was also a touch of citrus rind and vanilla. Both bottles were attractive overall. More consistent on the palate, with depth and concentration of fruit, clean and pure, a hint of licorice in Hong Kong. Both bottles finishing with a certain thickness to the tannins which are flavour laden. The balance is just a little off, and ultimately some dryness might come further to the fore. But there is depth of fruit, extract and complexity. It just lacks the charm of the more successful vintages. Very good in its own right, and one of the best 1998s (a difficult vintage) I have tasted.
No votes.
Tasted at both dinners. 95
A lovely garnet colour with a touch of development at the rim; consistent bottles, both immediately forthcoming, gorgeously fresh and fleshy on the nose, with oolong tea-like notes, florals, sweet candied strawberries, lovely detail; deep concentration on the palate. This wine has the vintage’s brightness and sinew-like acid-extended finish, but it avoids entirely the sometimes shrill effect that comes with that acidity. Instead there is lasting concentration and a sapid, almost jellied-like depth, which is extraordinary for 1996. Yields must have been well controlled. A hint of menthol in the lush fruit, fine and silky texture, everything covered in sap. Excellent Bonnes Mares, drinking well now!
No votes.
Tasted in Beijing only. 89
A diffuse appearance, but healthy, mature; a developed nose that had a metallic edge at first that blew off, clearly quite mature now and in decline. Sweet fruit and a nice attack, it’s delicious, but the wine weakens towards the finish which shows a little dryness. All positive, however, and the wine was pleasurable considering it was the worst vintage of the ‘90s. Perhaps, I am judging this too harshly however as it received 3 votes. I wouldn’t turn this 1994 down if it was a ‘deal’ somewhere in Europe on a wine list.
Tasted at both dinners. 99
Deep, clear and bright; a sweet, spicy, opulent aroma with notes of tea, bark and sous bois; silky, seductively-textured, a full caress, wild raspberry, well-delineated with pure-fruit character – especially for a ’90, a little spicy, gently voluptuous. This wine delivers so much pleasure. It’s the sort of wine that shows what Burgundy alone – at its best – can do. Consistent bottles. 6 votes (#1=) in Hong Kong, 8 votes (#1) in Beijing.
Tasted at both dinners. 96
Wonderfully bright and limpid in the glass, but now an evolved shade of bricked garnet with a tawny edge to the rim; consistent bottles – both sweet, spicy, fragrant, mature nose; silky on the palate with notes of roasted raspberries and dried red fruits, a touch of candied orange rind, milk chocolate, sous bois. All these aromas come across in waves emphasizing different aspects of the complex amalgam. Not as complete as the ’90, less power and authority, but somehow both hedonistically pleasurable and cerebrally enthralling – the latter, I find, rare for 1989. Tremendous wine.
2 votes in Hong Kong, 1 vote in Beijing.
Tasted in Hong Kong only. N/R
Alas, my glass – rightly the last pour – had a bit too much sediment and was marked by it, so I could not fully judge this wine. Unctuous, silky, elegant and delicious. I couldn’t fully appreciate though, and so couldn’t rate it. A number of others at the table went crazy tasting this wine, however, and it received 6 votes (#1=).
Tasted at both dinners. 91
Fairly clear, fully bricked through; Sweet, a little leathery with candied fruit on the nose that continues through to the palate; sweet, unctuous, mid-weight and concentrated, finishing with a little dryness, and slightly coarse tannins (that reminded me in ‘shape’ of a well-made ‘50s claret). Admirably clean, pure, and delicious, and with some boldness, this 1983 is appealing, even if it doesn’t have the precision, silkiness or detail of the better vintages. A very fine wine.
2 votes in Hong Kong, 4 votes in Beijing
Other offers 
