Available for our Hong Kong and Mainland China-based clients.
By Florian Rossignol, 29 December 2021
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin is a family estate printed in Burgundy landscape now for generations. They were known in the ‘50s and ‘60s as great fruit suppliers to négociants such as Drouhin, Jadot and Leroy. In 1988 they began domaine-bottling. Most of their wines were sold in the American and Japanese markets, and up until recently that has still been the case.
With Burgundy prices rising dramatically, it is difficult to associate “good value” and “grand cru”. But at Domaine Frédéric Esmonin you can choose between Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru and a good selection of 1ers Crus at very good prices. Drinking their wines gives me a good lecture on and understanding of what Gevrey-Chambertin terroir is.
Wines are made with finesse of fruit and texture allowing for young drinking appeal, but the depth and complexity of the climats they work are clearly in evidence. If the Japanese likes their wines, there must be a reason!
On a team visit to the domaine we met Frédéric and his father André in September 2019, and tasting from barrel we were impressed by the 2018s here. The gem in the 2018 offering is Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 'Estournelles St. Jacques'. This is a wonderful sunny south-facing vineyard that delivers a real succulence of fruit and natural concentration from small grapes. The silkiness and volume of that 1er Cru arouses curiosity on how grands crus here will perform with some further bottle ageing.
Another “highlight” is their Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru (from 40+ year old vines). This shows a typical density of black fruit and liquorice that we come to expect. The Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru (50+ year old vines) comes from a parcel neighbouring Rousseau’s Clos des Ruchottes. The silky airiness, minerality and supple succulence impressed me at such a young stage (barrel tasting).
In the cellar, Esmonin uses traditional techniques to have a gentle extraction, such as a short cold maceration, which gives extra layers of complexity to his wines. 80-100% of new oak are used on 1ers Crus, and Grands Crus. All his wines are racked only prior to bottling (without filtration).
We have a good selection of the 2016 vintage from Domaine Frederic Esmonin that we just re-tasting recently and is in a good drinking window now. Of the 2016 Ruchottes-Chambertin I wrote the following description: elegant red fruit, very detailed. On the palate, I enjoy the silkiness, airy texture and soft touch of tannins, sappy and complex, this is definitely a grand cru level wine. Great pairing with cold cuts or with heavier dishes.
We are pleased to be able to offer such top class wines at accessible prices. We invite you to explore for yourself.