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By Alexandria Rae Cubbage, 21 February 2020

Domaine Tortochot comprises 12 hectares and is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, but they also have vines in Morey-St.-Denis. It’s run by Brigette and Chantal Tortochot, the fourth generation of the family now making wine. Chantal handles the daily activities at the winery. When Chantal took over from her father, she set about converting the vineyards to organic and in 2013 received ECO certification. ‘Les Corvées’ is made from a .86 ha parcel in Gevrey-Chambertin and is their experimental vineyard. On the Domaine Tortochot website, Chantal describes her style: “Here we make a more traditional Gevrey Chambertin, with lots of fruit, strong tannins and good acidity. These are not really Pinots that can be drunk early...you have to be a little patient.”

For the winemaking, the grapes are 100% de-stemmed and then crushed. Next, the grapes are cooled down in tanks and undergo cold maceration for four to five days. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeast and pumping over occurs at the end of each day with two punch downs per day. For ageing the wine, Chantal uses medium toast barrels with 100% new oak on the grands crus, 50% new oak on the premiers crus and 25% new oak for the village wines.

The wines of Domaine Tortochot are from vineyards they farm organically showing her belief that the quality of the wine is impacted by what takes place in the vineyard first. The quality of the fruit and concentration is there and comes through in the glass. In addition, the wines are made to age, not simply with short term appreciation in mind. Chantal devotes one vineyard to experimentation showing that tradition is important, but she is also forward thinking and mindful of making improvements.

The Fine Wine Experience Team visited Domaine Tortochot during the harvest in September & November 2019 and tasted with Chantal Tortochot, who is very pleased with 2018s. “We had a warm summer, good yields, but there was water in the soil, so it was fine. We had a fresh, classical vintage”. The collection is one of her best yet. ‘Les Corvées’ is fresh, a little floral, and the palate has a lovely flow, moderate weight, and morish sapidity, with a saline edge. It’s so appealing already. ‘Lavaux St Jacques’ has fine fruit on the nose, good concentration of dark fruit, lots of sap and a stickiness to the tannins, very good length. ‘Les Champeaux’ shows a wilder and more high-register expression, a more fine-structured, taut mouthfeel, dark berry taste. Charmes was just a little too reduced to judge in November 2019, but has a nice round feel on the palate. Will need some time. Chambertin, also a little reduced, was fine-textured, elegant and concentrated. The grands crus will need time.