On 8 January, thirteen of you joined me to learn more about the extraordinary wines of Italy through blind tasting. The wines spanned from the Marche then west to Tuscany and up north to Piedmont and then back east to the Veneto. And the tasting also included a rare white wine from Venice. From the Veneto, we tried wines from two of its finest Amarone producers - Romano Dal Forno and Giuseppe Quintarelli who make wines using the appassimento technique whereby the grapes are dried on rush mats before being pressed and made into wine. For those of you who weren’t able to join us and want to learn more about wines from Italy, below is a bit of background on the wines we tasted and our impressions.

1st Flight:

A: 2018 Vietti - Moscato d'Asti Cascinetta

For our first wine of the tasting, the featured grape was Moscato. It’s the most widely planted grape in Piedmont and is known for having a grapey aroma and can also have floral and spicy notes. Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz, p. 684-685. This grape tends to be made in a style where it has a bit of sparkle or effervescence.

Vietti was founded in the late 1800s by Carlo Vietti in the village of Castiglione Falletto in the Langhe Hills of Piedmont. The Moscato d’Asti grapes come from vines planted in Castiglione Tinella, and the vines are almost 40 years old. For Cascinetta the best grapes with extended ripening are used. The natural carbon dioxide produced from the alcoholic fermentation process is preserved through the use of pressurized stainless steel tanks. Fermentation is stopped at 5% alcohol by controlling the temperature. The first vintage of this wine was 1978. 

Aromatically expressive, this wine showed grapey aromas and delicate flavours of mandarin orange citrus, orange blossom, yellow peach and apricot. It was lively and zippy on the palate with a light, easy going body (alcohol is just 5% abv). At the end of the tasting, I asked everyone to vote for their top two favourite wines of the night, and this wine received one vote for favourite wine of the night.

B: 2017 Vietti - Roero Arneis

In the second wine, the grape was Arneis which is also one of the signature white grapes of Piedmont and is grown primarily in Roero and Langhe. This grape nearly disappeared in the 1970s as only Vietti and Bruno Giacosa were bottling it, but Piemonte whites came back into fashion in the 1980s, so it survived. Wine from Arneis is normally made unoaked and is fruity with orchard fruits dominating. It’s a wine meant for drinking young. Wine Grapes, p. 54.

The Arneis grapes used by Vietti come from vineyards in Santo Stefano Roero, located in the middle of the Roero area, and the vineyards are approximately 25 years old. This wine doesn’t undergo malolactic fermentation, and there is no use of oak. It’s held in stainless steel tanks on its fine lees until just before bottling. The idea is to create a fresh and lively Arneis with vibrant acidity. Its first vintage was 1967. 

The wine showed a little bit of sulphur on the nose that required a bit of swirling in the glass, then notes of crunchy pears, green apple, and lime citrus along with an underpinning of minerally aromas came through. It is a vibrant wine that would work well with seafood and salads. This wine received no votes for top two favourite wines of the night.

C: 2014 Orto di Venezia

Orto is the only wine made in Venice. More specifically, it comes from the island of San Erasmo in the lagoon; this island is likely most famous for its small artichokes. The name ‘Orto’ translates to “garden”. French businessman, Michel Thoulouze, and his family decided to bring vineyards back to this island with the help of soil microbiologists, Lydia and Claude Bourguignon, and Crozes Hermitage winemaker Alan Graillot. The grapes are unique in that they are not planted on American rootstock like most of the grapes of the world that have suffered from phylloxera. This wine is made from 50% Malvasia Istriana, 40% Vermentino and 10% Fiano. The farming practices are organic and the winemaking is traditional. They use indigenous yeast, and the wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 

When we tasted this wine, for most the flavour profile reminded us of Viognier. Linden’s wife is a big fan of this wine, and the two of them discovered it on a trip they took to Venice. One of Julia’s other favourite wines is Condrieu. The 2014 Orto showed floral aromas of white flowers, flavours of yellow peaches, nectarines and mandarin oranges. While the grapes were difficult to pinpoint, because of the ripe flavours and aromas, most guessed the wine as being the one from Venice. This wine received no votes for top two favourite wines of the night

Michel Thoulouze © Orto di Venezia

D: 2008 La Monacesca - Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva 'Mirum 20'

For the last wine in the first flight, the grape was Verdicchio. It was the surprise wine of the tasting as most didn’t realize that this grape has the ability to age. La Monacesca is located in the commune of Matelica in the Marche in Central Italy. The area where the winery is located is called Contrada Monacesca, and when the winery began in 1966, it took the same name for its brand.

The ‘Mirum 20’ was created to celebrate the 20th vintage of Mirum. It’s made from 85% Verdicchio from the 2008 vintage and 15% Verdicchio from the 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2004 vintages. The vineyard area for these vines is approximately 3 hectares and made up of mainly clay soils. For the picking of the grapes, they are left on the vine an extra two weeks until they are slightly overripe. Then, the grapes are lightly pressed without the addition of sulphur and fermentation takes places in stainless steel tanks for approximately 20 days. The wine then rests on its fine lees until spring and malolactic fermentation is allowed to happen naturally. Then, the wine will age for eighteen months in stainless steel tanks and then an additional six months in bottle. It’s released two years after the harvest.

When describing wines made from Verdicchio, Jancis Robinson and her co-authors note: “The finest examples such as Umani Ronchi’s Casal di Serra and La Monacesca’s Mirum can improve in bottle for at least as long as the average white Burgundy.” Wine Grapes, p. 1123. This wine showed aromas of spicy pear, ripe golden delicious apple, nutmeg, cinnamon and lemon citrus with a bit of almond skin on the finish. It was medium plus in body and the favourite wine of the tasting with ten votes for top two favourite wines of the night.

2nd Flight:

E: 1997 Marchesi Antinori – Tignanello

The Tenuta Tignanello estate is located in the heart of the Chianti Classico region. Its vineyards sit on the same hillside as the vineyards used for Solaia and the soils are rich in limestone and schist. The wine is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The orientation of the vines enables them to receive warm, sunny conditions during the day and cooler temperatures at night. For 1997, the blend was 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged in small French oak barrels for 12 months prior to bottling. Tignanello was created by Antinori in 1971 and was one of the first Super Tuscan wines. It was a revolutionary wine because it was one of the first wines to blend international grape varieties with Sangiovese and the first time Sangiovese was aged in barriques.

This wine displayed aromas of red and dark cherry fruit, dark plums, sweet oregano, thyme and rosemary as well as notes of old leather and spicy minerals with lively acidity. The tannins were silky and refined, and the wine conveyed a medium plus body. It received four votes for favourite wine of the night.

The Tenuta Tignanello estate © antinori.it

F: 2008 Dal Forno Romano - Amarone della Valpolicella

Dal Forno Romano is located in the Valley of Illasi outside of the Classico zone in the Veneto. Romano Dal Forno established this estate in the 1980s, and he released his first wines in 1987. The estate comprises 12.5 hectares. Its specialty is Amarone. Dal Forno offers a bolder, more modern style of Amarone in juxtaposition to the more rustic and traditional style of Giuseppe Quintarelli. Both are considered the very top producers for Amarone. Dal Forno is known for his low yields which produce a creamy texture in his wines. For the winemaking, the wine spends two years in new French barriques and four years in bottle prior to release. 

The 2008 is a blend of approximately 60% Corvina with smaller percentages of Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina and Oseleta. The 2008 vintage was a cooler one with a longer growing season and moderate temperatures in the summer. Because of these slightly cooler conditions, this characteristically powerful wine is balanced with an elegance about it.

The wine showed aromas of blackberry, dark raspberry, dark chocolate, and while the fruit character was quite ripe, there was a liveliness to the wine. We noticed the alcohol here, especially when moving from the Tignanello which is 13.5% abv to this wine at 16.5% abv. While this Amarone was full bodied and had a creamy texture, the wine wasn’t overpowering; the fruit still had a bit of a coolness to it bringing balance. This wine received six votes for top two favourite wines of the night and was the second favourite wine overall.

G: 2015 Vietti - Barbaresco Masseria

‘Masseria’ is a fantasy name. But, technically, it’s the name of part of the Cottà cru in Neive. The grape in this wine is Nebbiolo.  For this Barbaresco, the grapes are from vineyards located in Neive and Treiso, and the soils are a mixture of clay and limestone. During the fermentation, the wine sees daily délestage, punch downs and open-air pump overs. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrique. Then, the ageing takes place in a combination of large oak vats, barriques and stainless steel tanks for a period of two and a half years. The first vintage of this wine was made in 1964.

In the book Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz, they describe the taste profile of Nebbiolo as follows: “tends to be . . . high in both acid and (especially) tannin, and to exhibit a haunting array of aromas which might include tar, cordite, leaf mould, dried cherries, liquorice, violets and roses.” p. 703. Another unique feature they note about Nebbiolo is that like Pinot Noir, this grape has the ability to express the nuances of terroir. p. 703. 

This wine showed aromas of violets, tar, red and dark cherries, thyme, rosemary, and sage with dark berry fruit on the palate and intense concentration. However, the tannins were refined and not overly harsh or jarring on the palate. It’s a full-bodied wine, but the warmth of the 2015 vintage and the ripeness of the tannins has made it accessible even now. On our visit to Piedmont in October, which included time at Vietti, Linden and I were struck by this quality of the 2015 Barolos, that some are even accessible now. The wine was opened three hours ahead of time and left in the decanter for an hour prior to being poured back in the bottle. This wine received one vote for top two favourite wines of the night

Francesco Grigoli, grandson of Giuseppe Quintarelli, in the cellars of the family’s winery
© Eric Pfanner/International Herald Tribune

H: 2006 Giuseppe Quintarelli - Alzero Cabernet 

The wines of Giuseppe Quintarelli are legendary, and he is revered as one of the great winemakers of the world. His estate is located in the Veneto in the hills north of Verona. Since his passing in 2012, his daughter Fiorenza and son-in-law Giampaolo and grandsons Francesco and Lorenzo have been running the estate.

The Alzero Cabernet is his counterpart to his famous Amarone using international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot instead. With these grapes, Quintarelli also uses the appassimento technique whereby the grapes are dried on rush mats before being pressed and made into wine. The blend is approximately 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. Then, the wine is aged for two to three years in French oak barrels and then for an additional four years in Slavonian oak barrels. The 2006 vintage was cool, dry and sunny, so the harvest was late. As a result, the wines tend to have more acidity and tannins balancing out their rich fruit character.

This wine showed aromas of liquorice, exotic spices, sweet, brandied cherries, red berry fruit notes and dark cherries combined with a touch of forest floor. The tannins were medium in character with a full-bodied finish. This wine received two votes for top two favourite wines of the night.

Ferruccio Biondi Santi © Biondi Santi

I: 2010 Biondi Santi - Brunello di Montalcino Annata

Ferruccio Biondi Santi is recognized as the father of Brunello di Montalcino. When phylloxera and downy mildew came to Italy, many winemakers looked to make wines for drinking early, but Ferruccio wanted to make wines for long ageing, so he grafted the estate’s new vines with Sangiovese Grosso and started producing wines from 100% Sangiovese. By doing that, he was able to break free from the regulations for Chianti and created a Brunello wine of longevity.

The Annata is from vines that are between 10-25 years old, so these are younger vines than those used in the Riserva which are over 25 years old and only made in good years. However, the ageing of both wines is the same, it takes place in Slavonian oak casks and is for 36 months. Biondi Santi represents Brunello made in the traditional way. The 2010 vintage is an outstanding vintage for Brunello. Growing conditions for the vintage were nearly perfect. The fruit is pure with balanced acidity and the tannins reached full phenolic ripeness.

This 2010 Brunello showed aromas of strawberry and other red berry fruits combined with notes of red and dark cherries, thyme and tomatoey acidity. The fruit is vibrant on the palate with medium tannins and medium plus body. This wine received two votes for top two favourite wines of the night. 

J: 2013 Bartolo Mascarello - Barbera d'Alba

One of the great forces in Barolo and fiercest defenders of its traditions was Bartolo Mascarello. He took over from his father just after World War II and made the wine up until his death in 2005. Bartolo was a force in Piedmont speaking out against practices such as single cru Barolos and the use of barriques. He believed that Barolo should express the soul and character of the vintage, so it should be a blend always. Now, his daughter Maria Teresa makes the wines adhering to her father’s philosophy about Barolo and winemaking.

This Barbera d’Alba is a blend of Barbera grapes grown in San Lorenzo and Rué where the area is less suitable for growing Nebbiolo. The most famous areas for Barbera are Barbera d’Alba and Barbera d’Asti. There is much debate as to which area makes the best. In Alba, more and more growers are ripping out their Barbera and Dolcetto grapes to plant with Nebbiolo instead because wines from Nebbiolo fetch higher prices.

The 2013 vintage saw a wet spring with cool and dry conditions in August followed by sunny weather in September. These growing conditions enabled slow, long ripening which was particularly favourable for Nebbiolo. For Barbera, the wines tend to have a bit more acidity and crunchy fruit character. 

This wine showed floral notes intermingled with savoury aromas of sage along with fruit notes of red cherries and red berries. The wine is vibrant with moderate tannins and a medium plus body. It’s a good match with white truffles shaved over two fried eggs.

Thank you to everyone who joined our Italian wine blind tasting session. The main takeaways from our session were that Verdicchio is a white grape capable of making wines that are complex and ageworthy, and Amarones, when in the right hands, can be among your great wine memories and far more than a wine with high alcohol. We hope you learned a bit more about wines from Italy and are inspired to try more. Check out our list of New Arrivals on Saturday to see what wine from Italy we’ve just brought in to Hong Kong as official importers.